Podcast 61 – When the French Quarter Was Sicilian

Podcast 61 – When the French Quarter Was Sicilian

Podcast version of our Third Thursday Sicilian talk.

sicilian macaroni factory

Podcast 61 – When the French Quarter was Sicilian

Thanks to everyone who came out last Thursday night for our fourth talk in our “Third Thursday Lecture Series.” This talk is essentially a lecture, now podcast, version of part of my “down-river” French Quarter Walking Tour. We explore the part of the Quarter known as “Little Palermo” in the early part of the 1900s. From the riverfront to the French Market, up into the neighborhood, we talk about produce farmers, market vendors, grocers, bakers, organized crime, and a well-known ice cream guy.

As mentioned in the presentation, I am a volunteer tour guide for the Friends of the Cabildo (FOC). The FOC offers one of the best French Quarter Walking Tours, and I’m proud they let me do them! This presentation is more-or-less a verbal/image “walk” like my tour. When going “down-river” from Jackson Square, you just can’t avoid talking about the Sicilian influence in the French Quarter, beginning in the 1880s. You’re most welcome to join us on the tour–click the link for more information.

The Pod

PDF of the presentation here.

Creole Italian by Justin A. Nystrom (link to bookshop.org)

While there are several good books on the Sicilian influences and history in New Orleans, I really enjoy Dr. Nystrom’s. The book goes well beyond just Da Quarters, but his thoughts on “Little Palermo” are excellent.

Scenes

Sicilian lemons

 Sicilian Lemons, which became part of the tariff issues in 1897.

Sicilian produce vendors, 1920s

Produce stall at the French Market, 1920s (colorized by NOLA History Guy)

Sicilian Grocery - Central Grocery on Decatur Street

Central Grocery

Sicilian grocery - Progress grocery 1003 Decatur.

ca. 1926, New Orleans — Woman driving horse drawn wagon in New Orleans. — Image by © Photo Collection Alexander Alland, Sr./CORBIS

Central and Progress Groceries

While Progress Grocery ain’t there no more, Central Grocery is still selling muffulettas at 923 Decatur Street. The Peronne family closed their grocery at 1003 Decatur, but still operate as a wholesale business. You can buy Progress Grocery brand olive salad and other products at local supermarkets.

Federico Macaroni, 1000 Chartres

Federico Macaroni, 1000 Chartres

Sicilian companies like Federico Macaroni created home-grown pasta products.

federico macaroni

Federico Macaroni on Chartres Street

Franck Studios photo of the Federico Macaroni manufacturing plant, 1000 Chartres Street, corner St. Philip. The Federicos were one of several Sicilian families operating pasta factories in the Vieux Carré, beginning in the 1890s. The photo is undated, but likely from the early 1920s.

Original Building

federico macaroni

This 1917 photo of 1000 Chartres shows the three-story building originally used by the Federicos. Their business grew so much, they demolished this structure in favor of the four-story building still standing.

Unintended Consequences

Sicilian grocers in New Orleans found it easy to import various products from back home in the 1880s and 1890s. Lemons from Sicily were in great demand throughout the latter half of the 19th Century. Simply put, as Professor Nystrom explains, cooks found Sicilian lemons to be of much better quality than those from California.

So, merchant shipping between Sicily and New Orleans increased dramatically. That enabled grocers to ship pasta, meats, cheese, and other products over. While Americans lacked interest in pasta sales, the lemons presented a major problem. Growers like the co-operative that later became SunKist lobbied Congress for relief. The government agreed. The US imposed import tariffs on Italy in the late 1897s. The government worded the tariff language broadly. This raised the price of lemons, but also on pasta. Local Sicilians took this as an opportunity. There really was no particular value to Sicilian-made pasta. New Orleanians in “Little Palermo” duplicated the products from the old country, with great success.

1000 Chartres

federico macaroni

The Vieux Carré in the early 1900s was not the “magic” neighborhood it is now. We recognize and respect its importance in the city’s story. The Sicilians had little interest in preserving Colonial New Orleans buildings. The real estate was cheap. Nobody stopped them from tearing down older houses. Up went factories, like the first three-story plant at Chartres and St. Philip. By 1920, the Federicos outgrew that plant. They demolished the building, replacing it with the existing four-story structure.

Fire and re-purposing

Federico Macaroni suffered a major fire at the 1000 Chartres plant in 1927. Fights with insurance companies went to court. The company eventually closed. United Paper Company occupied the building in the wake of the pasta company. Now, the Louisiana State Museum owns the building. It houses artifacts for the various museum properties such as the Cabildo and the Presbytere.

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